Snow mushroom (tremella) vs hyaluronic acid in skincare

Snow mushroom, also called tremella, is an edible fungus whose sugar-based polysaccharides hold water on the skin. K-beauty nicknames it plant hyaluronic acid because it gives a similar bouncy, hydrated feel. That is a comparison of feel, not a claim that the two ingredients are the same.

In short

• Tremella (snow mushroom) is a fungus long used in Asian food, and its polysaccharides are used in skincare for hydration.
• It is called plant hyaluronic acid in K-beauty because of how it feels, not because it is identical.
• It tends to feel light and silky, and suits most skin types.
• Polyglutamic acid is a different ingredient, made of amino acids, with a different feel.
• Layer it on damp skin and seal with moisturiser. Use a thin layer in humid weather.

What is snow mushroom (tremella) in skincare?

Tremella is a pale, frilly fungus used in Asian cooking and traditional food practices. In skincare, the ingredient is its polysaccharides, which are long chains of sugar molecules. These chains attract and hold water, which helps skin feel soft and look plump.

On a label you will usually see Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, or a similar name. The ingredient page for tremella explains it in more detail. In a formula, it often sits in a hydrating serum, essence or toner.

Why is tremella called plant hyaluronic acid?

Tremella is called plant hyaluronic acid because both ingredients hold a lot of water and give a cushiony, hydrated feel. The label is a marketing shortcut for how it feels, not a statement that tremella is hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that occurs naturally in the body and is also made for cosmetics. Tremella polysaccharides are a different type of molecule from a different source. They share a job, which is hydration, and they behave similarly on the skin.

So if you hear that tremella has the same effect or replaces hyaluronic acid, be careful. A fairer statement is that the two can feel comparable, and that some people prefer one over the other.

How does tremella feel different from hyaluronic acid?

Tremella usually feels light and silky, while hyaluronic acid can feel a little more tacky in some formulas. Both can look and feel good when used well.

Feel depends on the whole formula, so this is a tendency and not a rule. Some points people notice:

• Tremella. A soft, bouncy slip. It spreads easily and often leaves a smooth finish.
• Hyaluronic acid. Familiar and widely used. Different molecular sizes can feel different, from a light veil to a heavier layer.
• Together. Many serums combine several hydrators for a layered effect.

Neither is a moisturiser by itself. They hold water, and a cream or lotion then helps keep it from escaping.

Who does tremella suit, and how does humidity matter?

Tremella suits most skin types, including oily and combination skin that wants hydration without weight. It is also comfortable for skin that feels tight in air-conditioned rooms or dry winters.

Humidity changes how you use it. In a very humid city such as Mumbai or Chennai, hydrators can feel sticky if you apply too much. Use a thin layer and let it settle before moisturiser. In dry conditions, such as a Delhi winter or a long day in an office with air conditioning, hydrators work best on damp skin and need a moisturiser on top to seal them in. Without that seal, water can leave the skin again.

If your skin is very sensitive or you have a known allergy to mushrooms, patch test first or check with a doctor.

How is tremella different from polyglutamic acid?

Polyglutamic acid is a chain of the amino acid glutamic acid, and it is usually made by fermentation. Tremella is a fungal polysaccharide. They are different ingredients that are both used for hydration.

Polyglutamic acid tends to form a smooth, light film on the skin, which many people describe as a soft veil. You can read about it on the polyglutamic acid page. Tremella tends to feel more bouncy and water-rich.

Formulas often use both, since they feel different and can complement each other. Seonvie, the Korean-inspired skincare brand for India, is developing its glass skin serum with hydrating ingredients of this kind in mind. For the bigger picture of the look it aims at, see what glass skin really is.

How do I layer a tremella serum?

Apply a tremella serum right after cleansing or toner, while skin is still slightly damp. Follow with a moisturiser, and in the morning finish with sunscreen.

A simple order:

1. Cleanse your face.
2. Pat on a toner or leave skin slightly damp.
3. Press in two to three drops of serum.
4. Seal with a moisturiser that suits your climate.
5. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.

Start once a day and add the second application if your skin enjoys it. Do not expect a fast change. Hydrated skin looks smoother, but a hydrating ingredient will not change your skin type. The 4-step routine guide shows where this step fits.

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